Showing posts with label Whitehorse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Whitehorse. Show all posts

Saturday, June 8, 2013

Table of Contents

Below you'll find a chronological map for my blog.  Each post is also linked at the end to the next entry.  Feel free to follow my journey in order or jump around...read what you want, when you want.  :)



 Table of Contents for Yukon River Trip's Blog


THE DREAM

PREPARATIONS

THE DRIVE

THE YRT DAILY JOURNAL


This Table of Contents is not complete
& will evolve as the entries do.
This blog is a work-in-progress;
please return every once in a while to see what's new.


Thursday, July 21, 2011

Jake & Susan Are Back on Dry Land!: Day 19 of the Yukon River Trip

     Jake & I are happy to announce that we have finished our Yukon River Trip adventure!  We pulled into Carmacks on the evening of our 12th anniversary, covering 202 miles of the mighty Yukon River.  Early on in our quest, we decided to forego our original destination of Dawson City for a number of reasons.  Though we definitely could have made the 460 miles to Dawson City, it became quite clear that we were losing sight of some of our original trip goals.
     Our venture quickly took on the feel of all work and no play.  Yes, we knew we had our work cut out for us, but even before we left town, we began to feel as though the planning of this trip was a second job.  Then when it was finally time to depart, the six-day drive wore us down even more (we only stopped at three motels--the rest of the nights we drove on through to cover the 3,300 miles to Whitehorse.  The weight and aerodynamics of the trailer and boat slowed us down much more than we anticipated.
     Once arriving in Whitehorse (finally!), we took two nights at the Yukon Inn to recover...or so we thought we would.  We quickly found ourselves running here and there--getting fishing licenses, last-minute gear, checking the river and launching sites, reorganizing our gear from the drive, making arrangements for storing our truck and trailer (thank you Sports North!), etc.  When we finally hit the river on the afternoon of July 3rd, we were still exhausted from the months of planning, the 3,300 miles of driving, and the preparations once reaching Whitehorse.
     As we got a handle on how the Sundowner maneuvered on the Yukon River, a river so different from any back home, we soon discovered that the wind was going to be our biggest challenge.  Lake Laberge, the 30-mile lake we had to cross early in our route, surprised us by how calm she appeared to be as we entered her waters.  At first, the glass-like surface and windless skies deceived us, as we later found ourselves battling the horrific winds and waves that Laberge is known to produce without notice.  The structure of the Sundowner took quite a beating from Lake Laberge (and so did we).
     After sneaking out of Laberge late in the evening and rowing through the night because her winds seemed to be the calmest then (thankgoodness for the almost 20-hours of sunlight), we found ourselves taking on the wind during the next stretch of Yukon River, known as the Thirty Mile River.  It was apparent that we would most likely continue to battle the wind--not the river--the whole way.  Jake & I found that we had not had any time to explore, play, recover, or even feed ourselves properly, and I wasn't journaling--simply recording the miles of the day and basic events.  We were just too worn down.  We felt we were putting in overtime covering miles, ignoring what the real purpose of our trip was.
     So, we decided to take a couple of days off to rest up, reorganize the cabin, and play.  Panning for gold and fishing were the highlights of this break; they were the first "just for fun" moments of the trip.  This made us revisit our goals and begin thinking about changing our final destination.  You see, Dawson City was not our goal; working together to live on our boat as we explored the awesome Yukon River and followed in the paddle strokes of so many before us.  We weren't exploring; we were simply covering miles and wearing ourselves out as we battled the wind with our boat, watching the canoes and kayaks zip by us.  
     We did the math daily; we could still make it to Dawson City, but with the frequent and unpredictable winds the Yukon blows, we knew we needed to readjust the final destination in order to meet our goals.  We worked hard, played a bit, and learned much during our fifteen days as we covered 202 miles of the Yukon River from Whitehorse to Carmacks.


(As we travel home we will be posting journal portions, pictures, 
and memories of our trip.  So, check back soon!)


Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Alone & Anxiously Awaiting Jake's Return to Carmacks: Day 18 of the Yukon River Trip

...continued from "A Worst-Case Scenario in Carmacks:  Day 18 of the Yukon River Trip"

Once my talkative, curious visitor and her two mysterious men in the magically appearing truck vanished--CUT!  Yeah, that's not really how I saw the whole situation.  "Talkative" and "Curious" and "Mysterious" are quite honestly lip service at best.  The Truth:  These three were up to no good--period.  
     
So, let me start again:  Once the ill-intentioned, pushy girl and her two creepy accomplices in the eerily stealthy truck slithered away after their failed mission (much better), I welcomed relief, regained focus, and once again engaged myself in the monstrous goal of organizing the Sundowner and all her contents, which had sustained us for nearly three weeks on our 202-mile Yukon River Trip.
     
Clothes & toiletries, uneaten food & kitchen essentials, fishing poles & tackle, knives & tools, sleeping pads & bags, towels & tarps, maps & cameras, dry suits & waders, rain gear & extra boots, books & writing necessities, and survival gear along with a wench all had to be prepped to be logically packed into our vehicle upon Jake's return to Carmacks.
     
I wanted all the boxes, trunks, bags, crates, & many, many piles of gear to be prudently laid out, ready to load up before Jake's return for two reasons:  1.)  I yearned for a near-perfect organization system because we would be spending the next 7-8 days riding in & living out of our Expedition, and 2.)  I wanted Jake to return to a job well done and appreciate (& maybe even be happy) that I stayed behind in Carmacks while he retrieved our truck & the Sundowner's trailer from Whitehorse.

Each glance at the clock showed advancing numbers that represented the growing time that separated Jake & I for the first time since our June 25 departure date over three weeks ago.  For 24 days Jake was virtually an arm's reach away from me; rarely was he out of my sight, except the handful of times one of us would wander a couple of streets away for a food run in one of the few towns where we grabbed a bed to alleviate the laborious task of hauling the Sundowner 3300 miles from Indiana to the Yukon River. 

Enough time had not passed to merit serious worry, but the sudden separation left me feeling strangely incomplete, allowing anxiety to fill the newly vacant space Jake's absence created.  The once seemingly impossible chore of prepping all of our gear for the arrival of Jake & the Expedition proved to be a blessing with the distraction it offered.  
     
Once Jake's earliest possible estimated arrival time had passed, my mind would frequently steal away & wonder--or worry, rather--how Jake's chore was playing out:  I wonder if he has made it back to Whitehorse yet....  Will our 12-year-old truck start after sitting so long?  What if the Expedition has been stolen?  Or it breaks down--or worse--wrecks on the lonesome & treacherous road between Whitehorse & Carmacks?  What will I do if he's not back before the town sleeps and foragers lurk & scheme in the nearby shadowy foliage?  Just about the time Worst-Case-Scenario-Girl was ready to permanently stake herself a tent in the land of anxiety, Sanity would intervene and chase the worry back into my subconscious where it festered before surfacing again.
     
The Gravel Road I Routinely Scanned in Anticipation of Jake's Return 

As the afternoon matured, I debated on transferring the contents of the Sundowner onto the bank in hopes of shortening our load time once Jake returned.  I knew this was a gamble; if the culprits with the duplicitous dealings from earlier returned, I may not manage as well in a second strike.  On the other hand, if I cut our work in half, Jake & I could make an earlier departure for our 112-mile drive to Whitehorse.  (Google Maps estimated the travel time as 2 hours and 17 minutes; however, during our 6-and-a-half-day drive to the Yukon, nearly doubling those estimates better matched the pace our Expedition chose while hauling the Sundowner.)  

Time or safety: that was the question.  I resolved to chance it & unload the aggregation of paraphernalia from the Sundowner onto the bank of the Yukon River.  Any time that I could cut to accelerate our departure meant that much less time between me and a shower & clean bed.  So, I sorted & shuffled our gear into a mock-up of our packed Expedition, following the blueprint my mind drew during earlier hours of my scrupulous packing.
     
The New Holding Plot for Our Gear    

At last, while grabbing another load from the bow of the Sundowner, I turned & beheld our trusty Expedition with trailer in tow heading my way.  Pure joy saturated me when I caught my first glimpse of Jake's handsome face through the windshield camouflaged by the reflection of the surrounding trees.  





Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Waiting in Carmacks: Day 16 of the Yukon River Trip

Our View of the Carmacks Bridge from the Public Boat Launch

So, I hiked into Carmacks earlier today to purchase a few (very expensive!) groceries.  While at the grocery store (which also serves as the village's hardware store, video store, souvenir shop, & gas station), I learned that there is no bus or public transportation running between Carmacks and Whitehorse.  We can't figure out why.  Buses run from Whitehorse to Dawson & vice-versa, and Carmacks is right on the way; those buses have to go over the bridge that sits about 50 yards from our boat.  Locals are telling me to hitch a ride to Whitehorse; it seems like a popular and acceptable mode of transportation up here.  "Just hang out there by the gas pumps," one guy told me, "Somebody will take you."  Uh, no, I thought to myself as I thanked him for his help.  I'm just not comfortable getting into a stranger's car in this isolated place and trusting that I'll safely reach Whitehorse in one piece.
 

Jake later hiked into town to the Conservation Office, where he was able to call Kanoe People, an outfitter in Whitehorse, to see about the possibility of catching a shuttle from Carmacks to Whitehorse.  They were happy to exchange a free shuttle for a link to their business on our Yukon River Trip website.  The shuttle is scheduled to arrive the morning after tomorrow.  We haven't decided who will shuttle back to get the truck and trailer, but I hope it's Jake. 
 

Carmacks is a tiny village with a population just under 500, I believe.  We're at the public launch site, and so far, no one has come or gone since our arrival.   It's rained here off and on today.  I guess it's been raining here for about 12 days. A local said that it should clear up today or tomorrow.  We've managed to dry out much of our gear and clothing and bits of the boat, but we could use a sunny--rain free--day.
 

Looking Towards the Village of Carmacks
from the Public Boat Launch

I feel kind of hippie-ish living on the side of the river and walking to town from our boat.  This morning, I tried my best not to smell like I haven't seen a bathtub in over 15 days by lathering on lotion and applying extra deodorant.  Once inside the local store, I became highly self-conscience of the possibility that I might be emanating a nasty, reeking stench, the kind that makes you jerk your head away or hold your breath until you hope the coast is clear.  I couldn't smell myself, but I was worried that might not be the case for those so unlucky to cross my path.  Upon arriving in Carmacks, Jake & I boiled water and washed our faces, necks, arms, etc, but I haven't washed my hair in a while.  Only twice was I courageous enough to dunk my scalp into the freezing Yukon River to wash my hair.  But since it rained all day yesterday during our 65 miles of paddling, my hair got soaked.  So, it's a little better--still greasy & bugging me, but not as bad as it was.  Really, my clothes are probably as much of a culprit as anything.  Sure, I've washed them on our trip, but I think that was close to 9 days ago.  Knowing that clean clothes wait in our truck has cut out all motivation for washing clothes again in the chilly Yukon waters.  What's one more day?
 

Oh, I can't wait to take a shower!  The hotel here has coin showers, but I have no Canadian cash, so I'll have to see what we can work out.  If nothing, then I guess I'll be getting a hotel room--and soon!  I also miss a toilet very much--what a pain it's been, especially since our boat was impossible to pull over most of the time. 
 

What I find really fascinating is how little I can eat now.  I wasn't sure I'd be able to get down my entire bratwurst--just a plain bratwurst and bun--and chips were out of the question.  I am amazed at how much our stomachs have shrank and how many pounds were lost on the river.  I see a noticeable change in Jake and feel the difference in my now loose-fitting clothes.

Tied to a Trusty Tree in Carmacks on the Shores of the Yukon River
with NRS Straps from Nurpu River & Mountain Supply


Sunday, July 3, 2011

Our Yukon River Launch--Whitehorse, YT: Day 1 of the Yukon River Trip

Jake Driving the Sundowner to the Whitehorse Boat Launch


Positioning the Sundowner for our Launch in Whitehorse, YT, Canada


Easing the Sundowner into the Chilly Yukon River--Whitehorse, YT, Canada


The Public Boat Launch for the Yukon River in Whitehorse, YT, Canada


The Sundowner Is Ready for Jake & Susan's Yukon River Trip--Whitehorse, YT.

After Jake launched the Sundowner at the Whitehorse public launch site for the Yukon River, I drove the Expedition & trailer back to Sports North, where it would stay parked during our Yukon River Trip.  The Babala's, owners of Sports North, graciously offered to shuttle me back to our boat, and they bid us bon voyage from the bank of the Yukon River.



I highly recommend Sports North for their bountiful selection and exceptional customer service.  Fishing licenses are also available at Sports North.  We greatly appreciate Sports North's support of our Yukon River Trip..

Sports North
408 Baxter St, 
Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2T5, Canada

+1 867-667-7492